The old city’s heart, picturesque Place d’Armes with its sprawling alfresco cafes, was the doorstep to our home for the weekend, Hotel le Place d’Armes (hotel-leplacedarmes.com, B&B rooms this summer start from £305). Part of the Relais & Chateaux network of properties, general manager Mathieu referred to it as a ‘maison’, or house. It’s a metaphorical description but also a literal one, the 32 rooms spread across seven unique, interconnected former private homes, each with their own distinct personality — some offering the best Beauty and the Beast feels, others giving maximalist takes on Art Deco.
